![]() ![]() In a zoo deck, any 6-drop has to be very strongly considered, and this card doesn't do more than Argent Commander.Ĭan you talk a little bit about general strategy for board placement of minions? Would you run Black Knight in this deck? If yes, what would you substitute for it? Have you considered replacing Argent Commander with Dark Iron Dwarf?ĭark Iron Dwarf or Argent Commander are preference. In a Zoo deck, he is way too slow and is often stuck in your hand for a long time, which is bad with the cards that discard other cards. How do you feel about Lord Jaraxxus, Eredar lord of the Burning Legion? 1-drops, but most importantly I learned the Zoo mentality, which is just the general I learned about how to position minions, I learned what the best opening hands are, I learned about the Rock-Paper-Scissor against Zoo with 1-drops vs. ![]() Know the majority of the time, they WANT their imps to be taken down by plasma marines or something similar unless they are playing a red golem deck.Zoo is a highly-efficient high minion count board control deck, that tries to play the hand out as fast as possible, tapping when you run out and crushing with superior numbers. The next bet would be plasma marines (when you're going for the mana efficient options and not the deal huge amount of damage to them option), which do an incredibly good job of taking down the imps and recapturing the bridges. Illusory cleaver or blood imps are the cheapest way to deal with them. Shock rocking blood imps on your side of the field is generally a waste of mana unless you're hitting other things with it, so save the shock rock for when your things are on their side of the field. I'd say 90% of the time, I aim to try to fireball blood imps if I can hit all 5 and I know they will be taking the damage (not perk 2 Apep or perk 3 KP). Summon them just the right distance as they have the space to fire a shot to kill them and giving the opposing player little or no time to answer with a spell. Theres other creatures that have AoE(Area of Effect damage) that can counter them but dont summon them too far away as you are giving the opposing player chance to protect them. Shock Rock is a great counter to them as well as Whirly Scrat (a great staple for any beginner). If the opposing player summons on their area Blood Imp to respond to a creature of yours thats on their area, you can counter them with a spell since then a Black Hole is needed to protect Blood Imps or them as Masters. Just gotta play that early game to know his cards and then proceed with the best option. A Stun Blast can disable it and kill it(Blood Imps Killing it).Ī Boomer or a Re-boomer are great but a simple ShockRock will counter them. If the Enemy summons Blood Imps and you know he has mana, its a gamble whether or not your Whirly Scrat or AoE damage can counter it. Throwing out a Fireball to counter a Blood Imp, whether the opposite player Protect from it or not, is a highly disadvantage since now you are down 4 mana and the Opposing player is not and you have no pressure on the board! Mr.Tonguesoff(Chicksbeforedicks) a écrit :so to counter imps is just simple crowd control right? Countering a Blood Imp should be done with the least mana as possible. People who are creating decks goes for fast rotation so they are simply picking the strongest.ĮDIT: Only 2 masters who dont care of rotation speed are Stormbringer and Ravenger. ![]() > s.int will be meta -> if you nerf s.int then -> plasma -> elite swamers -> swarmers and so on. So players will always add a bunch of spam minions. So in this game it is not possible to create a midrange control deck, because you are simply losing by the "start gain". Thats the reason even lategame control decks are using blood imp and spam minion to get the fast rotation. So the "start gain" egde is simply just getting bigger and bigger. When you hit perk 3 you get +9 mana discount every time you play for 10 manaĪnd your opponent have to spend 35 to get his +9. It is only getting worse the later the game goes: When you are getting the "start gain" faster than your opponent, you will slowly getting a egde just because you have a faster rotation. If you opponent need 35 mana to rotate he will get +2 mana. So if you have to spend 10 mana to rotate you will get +2 mana in perk 1. That means every time you had rotated you get the "start gain" / "perk gain". If we are looking at those who gets cards added the discount is roughly: Cycling speed in this game is really strong. ![]()
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